Desi Wardrobe Malfunctions

This gastronomical meal at Gaggan, a progressive Indian restaurant in a colonial style wooden house set in the heart of downtown Bangkok, turned out to be our best and most memorable meal that trip.

We tried some of the critically acclaimed restaurants in Bangkok – Nahm , Bo.lan, and Eat Me, though I felt that an element or two was missing.

In contrast, the meal at Gaggan was highly satisfying and complete. It is afterall, top 10 in Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants, and the only Indian restaurant.

Gaggan means “sky” in Hindi, and this 70-year old restored bungalow of sorts, with green gardens, comfortable rooms and cane furniture, made me feel that I was visiting a very wealthy friend.

Do make a tour around. Finding a washroom is a good excuse. There were book shelves with legitimate food books, an outdoor area to have a drink and gaze at the sky, and no music. Yes, like a dining in a friend’s house, but also strangely very still and quiet.

The best way to experience Chef Gaggan Anand’s creativity is through the Tasting Menu (1800 Baht, SGD$69.70, USD$55.30).

Having trained for two months in Ferran Adria’s el Bulli, Gaggan’s cuisine is influenced by its philosophy. There is no way you would find a typical curry dish, naan or masala chicken here. Expect well, modern interpretation of Indian classics.

My advice: throw all expectations out and be thrilled. There were fun dishes, such as the Minced Lamb Patty which came in a tomato ‘false’ bun all airy and crumbly, and slightly sweet. As well as something more serious and closer to authenticity – an aged basmati rice layer with chicken, herb and saffron served in a small pot.

The Carrot Cake, I assure you, would be like nothing you ever tried before. Coming in a green bottle cut into half, with saffron, it Is all whimsically imaginative yet appetizing.

There were some perhaps 3-4 constructions on the menu we did not quite understand and went “huh?”, like the Tiramisu flavoured cold cookie with choco chip, all made in front of very eyes, but with an unarresting taste in contrast to the procedure it went to making.

If you are up for Ala Carte (the menu is presented like an olden magic book), go for the “When India met Italy” Seafood Risotto (520 Baht, SGD$20.14, USD$16.00). The combination of lobster, prawns, clams, fish, all slowed cooked with rice and saffron milk, was impossibly delicious.

Then you would have thought Elizabeth Gilbert could have just travelled to Bangkok to find her Eat Pray Love.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________